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Driveways

A driveway is a structure, not a surface.

What holds a drive up is the compacted base and the reinforcement inside the slab. We price those first and the finish second — the other way around is how driveways end up cracked in five years.

Poured-concrete driveway slab with saw-cut joints in front of three garage bays

Illustrative photo — not this company's work.

How a driveway gets built

Five stages, and you know which one you are in

From the first cut to a driveable slab is usually a week and a half — most of which is the concrete curing while nobody is on site.

  1. 01

    Day 1

    Tear-out

    The old slab is broken out and hauled off, the pad is cut to grade and the sub-base is compacted in lifts until it stops moving under the plate.

  2. 02

    Day 1–2

    Forms & steel

    Forms go to the finished elevation with the fall built in and the apron tied to the street cut. Rebar sits on chairs at mid-slab, where it can do something.

  3. 03

    Pour day

    Placement

    Trucks back to back so the drive goes in as one placement — no cold joint down the middle of a slab that is meant to look like one piece.

  4. 04

    Same day

    Finish & joints

    Edges tooled, joints cut on the layout drawn before the pour, then the broom pass across the direction of travel once the bleed water is gone.

  5. 05

    Day 3–28

    Cure

    Curing compound keeps the water in the slab. Walk it after 24 hours, park on it after 7 days, and keep the dumpster off it until it has its 28.

Driveway spec

What we build a drive to

Typical residential values. Yours are fixed in writing after the site visit — soil, drainage and what parks on it decide the rest.

4,000 psi
Mix strength on a standard residential drive
4 in
Standard slab for cars and light trucks
5–6 in
Where an RV, trailer or delivery truck parks
4–6 in
Compacted road-base under the slab
#4 @ 16 in
Rebar grid on heavy-load drives
10 ft
Maximum control-joint spacing on a 4 in slab

What a finished drive looks like

Same sequence, different houses

Illustrative photos — not this company's work. On the live build these are your own driveways.

Wide rain-wet driveway running up to a three-bay garage at dusk
Wide drive · fall carried to the street · illustrative
Exposed-aggregate concrete surface photographed in raking sunlight
Exposed aggregate · a grippier drive surface · illustrative
New driveway apron meeting the sloped curb and gutter of the street
The apron · where the drive meets the street cut · illustrative

Driveway questions

Before you sign anything

How long am I without the driveway?

Plan on about 8 days: two for tear-out and forms, one for the pour, then 7 days of cure before a car goes back on it. We can usually leave a parking strip usable while the rest is out.

Do I need rebar, or is fiber enough?

Fiber mesh controls shrinkage cracking in the surface. Rebar holds the slab together once a crack has formed and carries load across it. For a car-only drive on firm sub-grade, fiber plus proper joints is honest work. For heavy vehicles or soft coastal-plain sand, steel earns its cost.

Can you match the existing concrete?

Close, not identical. New concrete cures lighter and darkens over a year or two, and no two loads of aggregate are the same. Where a match matters, we design the joint line so the change of color reads as a deliberate edge instead of a patch.

Next step

Measure the drive with us.

Half an hour on site gets you the square footage, the slab spec, the joint layout and a written price — no charge and no follow-up calls you did not ask for.

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